Do not get ripped off by credit consolidation con artists

September 17th, 2009

Debt Consolidation CareCredit consolidation is undoubtedly a good option to get out of debt but it may have several side effects. Not all credit consolidation firms can be relied upon. You may have come across many websites of debt consolidation companies that have emblems of BBB posted on their websites. These companies may have been accredited by the Better Business Bureau but behind the scenes these companies may be carrying out illegal activities.

Given below are few instances the credit consolidation companies camouflage their illegal activities.

• They camouflage as non profit credit consolidation companies

You may have come across several debt consolidation companies that call themselves non profit firms. Not all non profit debt consolidation firms are scam artists but you have to identify one. These credit consolidation companies will negotiate with your creditors and get the interest rate and monthly payments lowered. However, the payments you make to the creditors are pocketed by them as their fees.

• They charge very high upfront fees

One of the common complaints that the state attorney generals, BBB, state regulators and Federal Trade Commission receive is that these companies charge very high upfront fees. But in most of the cases it is seen that these companies fail to deliver what they promise to the debtors.

• The company wants your bank account number, Social Security Number and personal information

When you are planning to seek professional assistance to get out of debt, you find out the credibility of the different credit consolidation companies. These companies have the right to know the names of your creditors, the interest rates according to which you are currently making payments and outstanding balances. However, stay away from credit consolidation companies that ask you for your Social Security Number, Bank details and personal information.

So, if you are planning to get rid of your debts by opting for credit consolidation, make sure you select the right debt consolidation firm. This is because the effectiveness of the debt help option also depends on the credit consolidation firm you choose.

Have a question? Ask, and you shall receive…answers that is

September 10th, 2009

iStock_000008998403XSmallWe have just unveiled FreebieCreditReport.com Answers – a great way for our readers to ask questions and get expert answers.  If your question falls into (or near) these categories: debt, loans, credit, identity theft… please submit your question and we will do our best to give you the best answer possible.

We are also looking for experts to help us answer questions as well. If you feel that you have what it takes to answer these types of questions, sign up and get ready to give your “2 cents”. It’s a great way to get your name, website or blog more recognition, and at the same time provide useful information to the community.

Give answers and receive prizes and rewards

Providing good quality answers can earn you points, and as our question/answer community grows, we will start offering prizes and incentives to the top experts, just to say “thank you” for a  job well done, or in this case, a question well answered.

Ask questions, provide answers, or just read through past questions and answers – it’s up to you. Get started now!

Drowning in student loan debt? Help is here.

September 10th, 2009

What is the new Federal Student Loan Income Based Repayment (IBR) program?

iStock_000003637738XSmallIf you are one of the millions of us drowning in huge federally guaranteed student loan debt, and burdened with high monthly payments we can’t afford, there may be help out there for us. A new federal program called Income Based Repayment (IBR) began July 1, 2009. Income guidelines have to be met in order to qualify. Loans in default do not qualify.

Monthly student loan payment amount is based on income, and family size using the 2009 150% HHS Poverty Guidelines by Family Size. See the guidelines below to find out if you may qualify.

For most eligible student loan borrowers, IBR monthly student loan payments will be less than 15% of family income, and possibly even lower for very low income earners, or no income borrowers.

Please check with your student loan lender or student loan service representative to find out if you qualify.

Student loans that may qualify for the program:

  • Direct loan programs
  • Guaranteed or FFEL loan programs
  • Stafford student loans (subsidized and unsubsidized)
  • Perkins loans consolidated into federal Guaranteed (FFEL) or Direct loans.
  • Grad PLUS loans
  • Consolidated Stafford and Grad PLUS loans (if not combined with Parent PLUS loans)
  • Loans borrowed before or after IBR was created

Student loans that do not qualify:

  • Parent PLUS loans
  • Private loans
  • Loans in default

There is also a program called Public Service Loan Forgiveness. Ask your student loan lender, or student loan service representative how it works. Watch the short, less than 3 minute, entertaining, and informative video below to learn more about Income Based Repayment (IBR):

150% of 2009 HHS Poverty Guidelines by Family Size

Number of Persons in      48 Contiguous        Alaska            Hawaii
Family or Household       States and D.C.

1                                         $16,245           $20,295          $18,690

2                                         $21,855           $27,315          $25,140

3                                         $27,465           $34,335          $31,590

4                                         $33,075           $41,355          $38,040

5                                         $38,885           $48,375          $44,490

6                                         $44,295           $55,395          $50,940

7                                         $49,905           $62,415          $57,390

8                                         $55,515           $69,435          $63,840

For each additional
person add:                      $5,610             $7,020            $6,450

For more information visit ibrinfo.org

Please practice financial responsibility, good financial stewardship, and due diligence. Be informed, and aware that as great as this new IBR program sounds, and as much as it could help our current financial situation, there is also the possibility that opting into this program could adversely affect your credit rating, and lower your credit score. Ask your student loan lender, or loan service representative how it will be reported to Equifax, Experian, TransUnion, and Innovis credit bureaus, and if it will negatively affect credit rating, or credit score.

Michael Jackson’s credit score was as bad as his nose job

August 28th, 2009

Yesterday it was reported by the Examiner that in 2007, Michael Jackson’s average credit score was 563.67. I know, big shocker right? A score in this range would put him into the “sub-prime” category. No doubt the result of Jackson’s lavish spending habits with little cash to back it up.

If he wasn’t Michael Jackson, his credit score wouldn’t get him much in the way of loans, and if he was able to obtain new credit with a score that low, he would be paying extremely high interest.

We may not be as rich and famous (or infamous, in his later days) as Michael Jackson was, but at least most of us can take solace in the fact that we have better credit than he did!

How to get a good deal on a new car

August 24th, 2009

iStock_000002152568XSmallThis story was shared with us recently, a great example of getting the most out of your money when buying a car…

Jason M. from Florida was in the market for a new car, his 2000 Toyota Camry was nearing 200,000 miles on the odometer, and had seen its better days. Jason is a single guy, 25 years old, great credit (credit score of 755), and was looking to get the most car for his money.

Time to decide

Already having owned a Toyota Camry, he was very open to the idea of getting another. Still, he did his homework. He utilized a site called Edmunds to research the new 2010 Camry along with many of its competing models (Honda Accord, Nissan Altima, Chevrolet Malibu), eventually deciding the 2010 Toyota Camry LE was for him. He liked the reliability rating coupled with the attractive styling, resale value, and gas mileage the car had to offer.

Do the research

After deciding on the car he wanted, he proceeded to do further research into what the true market value (or TMV) was for the vehicle he chose. He found that other people were paying in the neighborhood $21,200 for this car, with a sticker price of $22,650, that’s a savings of $1,450 if he were able to successfully negotiate this deal with his local Toyota dealer.

At that point he needed to figure out what amount of money would be a fair trade-in price for his current car, since it was not a “clunker” and did not qualify for the CARS rebate system. Again he turned to Edmunds and found out that a 2000 Camry in good condition with nearly 200,000 miles was worth about $3,000 on trade. Since this car was paid off long ago he could apply this amount directly toward the price of his new car.

Off to the dealer

Having finished his research, Jason headed down to the Toyota dealer and took a red 2010 Camry LE out for a test drive (they had plenty in stock). He really liked the car, a great upgrade from the 2000 model, he thought. After the test drive and checking out all the features the car had to offer, Jason was ready to go in and “work out the numbers” with the salesman.

Now the fun begins!

Jason knew what he wanted, by doing his research beforehand. He knew his current car was worth $3,000 on trade, and others were paying around $21,200 for the exact car he was looking at buying that day. But he also knew the dealer wasn’t going to just offer that to him right away, so he had his work cut out for him.

They both walked over and sat down as the salesman’s desk, and went through the whole process of collecting his personal information, and the details on his trade-in. After one of the guys at the dealer took his car for a quick drive, they went back to “work on the numbers”.

After several minutes, the salesman came back with a piece of paper in his hand, with some things written on it, and he said “ok, so here’s what we can do”. They wanted to give him $2,200 for his trade-in with the price of the car being the full sticker price of $22,650. If he took the first thing they offered him, he would end up paying $2,250 more for his new car than he should’ve. So did he take it, NO! He knew that you never take what they give you, you do your research and know what you can get, then negotiate to achieve the deal you want.

Here’s the deal I want, take it or leave it

At that time he told the salesman exactly what he wanted, and basically said “take it or leave it”. There were plenty of other Toyota dealers around with plenty of Camry’s to choose from, if he didn’t get the deal he wanted he could’ve just gone to another dealer. He even had it written down on a piece of paper, which he pulled out of his pocket and handed to the salesman.

The salesman looked a bit befuddled, and said “I don’t know if we can do that, let me check with the sales manager”. He came back a few minutes later with some more numbers written down on the paper. Their “final” offer was to give Jason $2,500 for his trade, and discount the new car by $500. Which brings the price down to $22,150, which is still almost $1,000 more than what Jason found to be a fair price for the car.

At that time he could’ve just said, “ok we have a deal”. After all they said that was as low as they could go on the new car, and as high as they could go on the trade-in, right? Yes that is what they said, but Jason knew what he wanted and stuck to his guns. He said to the salesman “well, maybe I’ll check around and see if another dealer will give me what I want”. That’s the last thing a salesman wants to hear when he’s that close to making a sale!

Jason started to get up and head out the door, at that time the salesman quickly told him to wait, and that he needed to go back and talk to the sales manager again. Guess what? They gave him what he wanted, the new car at $21,200 and $3,000 for his trade-in. Wow, so much for their “final” offer!

“Final” is not always Final

The salesman told Jason that’s as good as they could do, not because it was true, but because most people fall for that line. Most uneducated buyers would’ve just said “ok, it’s a deal”. But not Jason, he knew better. And he saw it through to the end and got what he knew he deserved.

Do your research and save

In this case, Jason saved $2,250 ($800 more on his trade-in and $1,450 off the price of the new car) by doing his research and knowing what kind of deal he could GET, not by taking what the dealer wanted to GIVE him.

Thanks to his good credit score, he ended up obtaining a loan for the car through Toyota Financial with 0% financing for 3 years, which turned out to be a great deal for him. The savings he was able to achieve by getting the special 0% financing is out of the scope of this article, but still another great money saver, and probably a topic for another day.

Next time you are in the market to buy a new or used car, try to mimic what Jason did and you will most likely save a bundle as well.

Getting a mortgage with a low credit score

August 21st, 2009

iStock_000002893588XSmall

I recently had a very good question submitted to us from one of our visitors, she wrote:

“When I first decided to buy a house it seem like only a dream, my scores where in the low 500, the mortgage company told me about all the things on my credit that I need to pay off, and also all the things I need to keep in good status. I then paid off all the things on my credit and kept my car loan up for the last past year….now my credit is at a 615 what is that I must do to make my credit score rise more, they want it to be at least a 620 to get the loan… please help me!!!!”

Sounds to me like you have had some trouble in the past with late payments, and probably high credit card balances. If you’re able to get your credit score up to 620, that’s a huge improvement over the low 500’s, and I think congratulations is in order. A credit score in the lower 600 range will not get you the best interest rates, but you are well on your way to improving your credit score.

First thing’s first

Here’s a good idea of how your credit score is determined:

  1. Payment history: 35% of your score
  2. How much you owe: 30 % of your score
  3. Length of credit history: 15% of your score
  4. Newly opened accounts: 10% of your score
  5. Types of credit accounts: 10% of your score

Payment history

As you can see above, #1 factor is your payment history. Have you made your payments on time in recent years? How late have you been, if at all? Being 60 days late hits your credit score harder than a 30 day late payment does. Maybe you’ve had some trouble in the past with this, you can’t change history, but you can help shape your future. Just make sure you pay your bills on time, this is key.

How much you owe

The importance of this is right up there with payment history. Pay special attention to your credit card balances. It’s best to keep your credit utilization ratio below 25%. This means if you have a total credit line of $10,000 (total of all the limits on your credit cards), you should keep a total balance no more than $2500 on those cards. The closer you move to having a 50% debt to limit ratio, the lower your score will go. And once you go over 50%, your credit score takes a big hit. So pay special attention to this part and work very hard on keeping your balances low.

Length of credit history

This one you don’t have much control over. One thing to keep in mind is keep your oldest accounts open, such as credit cards. If you have too many open accounts, and you must close some, cancel your newest accounts and keep the oldest ones active. You want your credit history to look as old as possible, closing old accounts will make your credit history look shorter.

Newly opened credit accounts

Opening many credit accounts in a short amount of time is not good for your credit score, even if you don’t carry high balances on these accounts, and pay your bills on time. Every new account you open will ding your score, so open new accounts only when you really need to. Time to say no to the store clerks who want you to open a credit account at their store and save 10% on your purchase. It may save you money now, but if you’re trying to maintain or build a good credit score, it’s a good idea to just use the credit card you already have, or pay with your debit card instead.

Types of credit accounts

Lenders and creditors like to see how you handle your credit accounts of all types. Auto loans, mortgages, credit cards, student loans are some good examples. If you only have credit cards on your credit report, and no installment loans like student loans or auto loans, you may appear to be at higher risk because the lender can’t look at your credit report and see how you handle installment loans. If this is the case for you, you may end up paying higher interest on your first loan, or they may ask that you have a co-signer on your loan.

Again, don’t open new loan accounts just for the sake of improving your credit score. Only open new installment loans as needed, and be sure to pay your bills on time.

On the road to a higher credit score

If you’re trying to further improve your credit score, be sure to pay your bills on time every month, keep low balances on your credit cards, don’t open any new accounts unless you absolutely have to (this includes department store credit cards). If you already have some dings on your credit report, time will heal these, just hang in there and your score will improve.

Credit score estimator

If you are having trouble figuring out what things to focus on first when trying to improve your credit score, check out our credit score estimator. You can plug in different scenarios and see which events affect your score the most. It’s a great financial tool, check it out.

Portion of new credit card law begins today

August 20th, 2009

Card

Part of a new credit card legislation, signed in May by President Obama, goes into effect today (reports USA Today). Credit card companies must now give consumers 45 days notice before any significant changes to their accounts. Also, they can no longer label a payment as late, unless the credit card bill was sent at least 21 days before its due date.

But what is a significant change?

Unfortunately there are some holes that need to be plugged. Under this new legislation, account closures and credit line decreases do not qualify as “significant changes”. I think most people would agree that both of those changes would be quite significant, and should fall under the” 45 day notice of major changes” category.

This still leaves the door open for consumers to receive sudden cuts in their credit line, which raises their “credit utilization ratio” and can  be very damaging to their credit score. This could cause the consumer to appear to be a higher risk borrower, which could lead to higher interest rates or possibly credit or loan applications being denied.

Still providing advantages

While this new legislation has some holes, it still provides some protection for consumers which did not exist before. Among other things, it will give consumers more time to pay their bill, without receiving a late fee. That’s a big plus.

The most significant pieces of the legislation don’t take effect until Feb. 2010. So look out for those. In the mean time, enjoy the extra time to pay your credit card bills!

Which is best, Credit or Debit?

August 19th, 2009

iStock_000001262075XSmallIn light of the recent large scale credit and debit account theft scheme (read more on that), it’s definitely worth asking the question – which is best, credit or debit?

Quick answer – credit is best. Stick with only using your debit card for ATM withdrawals.

Why? Federal law states that credit users will not be liable for any fraudulent charges over $50.  While the limit for debit users is 10 times that amount, or $500. Your results may vary based on your financial institution, many credit card issuers have zero liability policy.

Credit VS Debit

Credit card accounts have better fraud protection. Accounts with some of the best fraud protection will actually catch possible fraud before you do, and avoid the problem altogether. Debit card accounts normally don’t have this sort of protection.

Recovering the cost of the fraudulent charges will be easier for credit card users than for debit users.

Some credit card accounts provide cash back, or rewards for every purchase you make. My credit card gives me points for every retail purchase I make, I can then buy things with those points, including various gift cards or specific items (I usually go for the gift cards). I have yet to see a debit card account offer to give rewards for spending your own money.

Cash or free loan?

Using debit cards requires that you have the cash immediately available, and immediately withdrawn from your account. Credit cards on the other hand are similar to borrowing the money at no interest, and paying it back in a month. You don’t need that money available in your account at the time of your purchase.

This can actually be very beneficial to you. Instead of paying for that new LCD flat screen TV with your debit card, you can use your credit card instead, and keep that money in an interest bearing account until it comes time to pay your credit card bill. It’s like borrowing money for free for a month, as long as you are sure to pay your balance in full.

Use, don’t abuse

As always, you need to use your credit cards wisely. Try not to overspend, or buy more things than you can afford just because you don’t have to pay it back right away. Pay your balance in full each month. Be sure to pay your bill on time, credit card companies have no problem slapping you with a $39 fee for late payments, even if you are just a day late.

Used wisely, credit cards can be a great asset, and provide more fraud safety than debit cards. Abused, credit cards can be a financial nightmare if you build up a large balance, and are not able to pay it off on time. Believe me, I’ve been there and back, it’s not fun.

Miami man charged with largest case of ID theft ever

August 18th, 2009

Credit Card Security

On Monday, Albert Gonzalez of Miami, Florida was charged with the largest case of credit and debit card theft in the history of the United States. The ex government informant, after already swiping 40 million accounts, had plotted to steal 130 million more, by hacking into retail networks and retrieving the data. He and two other unnamed suspects had planned to take the private information and sell it to others. Read more at newsday.com.

This case, as large and damaging as it could be to millions of people, is an excellent reminder of how important it is to be vigilant in guarding your accounts from fraud, and protecting yourself from identity theft.

What to do if you’re a victim

At this point it’s probably too early for all those who’s credit and debit card information has been compromised, to be notified individually. So the best thing you can do now is check over your credit card and bank accounts online for any suspicious activity. If you notice any charges or debits that you did not authorize, report them immediately to your financial institution. Early detection is the best way to protect yourself if your account information has already been compromised.

It costs time and money

On average, identity theft victims lose an average $1,800 to $14,000 in wages dealing with their cases. Average time involved in reparing the damage done – 3 to 5,840 hours (data from spamlaws.com).

Imagine this times all the millions of accounts that were compromised. The information stolen in this case seemed to only be credit card and debit card information, so the problem probably would be contained there, still, unfortunately, could bring damaging results for the victims.

Which is safer, credit cards or debit cards?

Typically you will be safer using credit cards over debit cards. The reason is that credit card companies often limit your liability to no more than $50 of the unauthorized charges (many cards actually have zero liability). Where your liability with a stolen debit card could be 10 times that amount if you don’t notify them of the event quick enough.

Not to say you shouldn’t use a debit card, just be careful with it and notify your bank immediately if you think someone has stolen your account information, especially if your actual debit card has been stolen.

Whether you use a debit card, credit card, or both – keep a close eye on your accounts for unauthorized charges. If you see anything suspicious, notify your bank or credit card company of the activity immediately, it could save you a lot of time and money if you spot the fraudulant charges early.