Archive for the ‘Loans’ Category

Drowning in student loan debt? Help is here.

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

What is the new Federal Student Loan Income Based Repayment (IBR) program?

iStock_000003637738XSmallIf you are one of the millions of us drowning in huge federally guaranteed student loan debt, and burdened with high monthly payments we can’t afford, there may be help out there for us. A new federal program called Income Based Repayment (IBR) began July 1, 2009. Income guidelines have to be met in order to qualify. Loans in default do not qualify.

Monthly student loan payment amount is based on income, and family size using the 2009 150% HHS Poverty Guidelines by Family Size. See the guidelines below to find out if you may qualify.

For most eligible student loan borrowers, IBR monthly student loan payments will be less than 15% of family income, and possibly even lower for very low income earners, or no income borrowers.

Please check with your student loan lender or student loan service representative to find out if you qualify.

Student loans that may qualify for the program:

  • Direct loan programs
  • Guaranteed or FFEL loan programs
  • Stafford student loans (subsidized and unsubsidized)
  • Perkins loans consolidated into federal Guaranteed (FFEL) or Direct loans.
  • Grad PLUS loans
  • Consolidated Stafford and Grad PLUS loans (if not combined with Parent PLUS loans)
  • Loans borrowed before or after IBR was created

Student loans that do not qualify:

  • Parent PLUS loans
  • Private loans
  • Loans in default

There is also a program called Public Service Loan Forgiveness. Ask your student loan lender, or student loan service representative how it works. Watch the short, less than 3 minute, entertaining, and informative video below to learn more about Income Based Repayment (IBR):

150% of 2009 HHS Poverty Guidelines by Family Size

Number of Persons in      48 Contiguous        Alaska            Hawaii
Family or Household       States and D.C.

1                                         $16,245           $20,295          $18,690

2                                         $21,855           $27,315          $25,140

3                                         $27,465           $34,335          $31,590

4                                         $33,075           $41,355          $38,040

5                                         $38,885           $48,375          $44,490

6                                         $44,295           $55,395          $50,940

7                                         $49,905           $62,415          $57,390

8                                         $55,515           $69,435          $63,840

For each additional
person add:                      $5,610             $7,020            $6,450

For more information visit ibrinfo.org

Please practice financial responsibility, good financial stewardship, and due diligence. Be informed, and aware that as great as this new IBR program sounds, and as much as it could help our current financial situation, there is also the possibility that opting into this program could adversely affect your credit rating, and lower your credit score. Ask your student loan lender, or loan service representative how it will be reported to Equifax, Experian, TransUnion, and Innovis credit bureaus, and if it will negatively affect credit rating, or credit score.

How to get a good deal on a new car

Monday, August 24th, 2009

iStock_000002152568XSmallThis story was shared with us recently, a great example of getting the most out of your money when buying a car…

Jason M. from Florida was in the market for a new car, his 2000 Toyota Camry was nearing 200,000 miles on the odometer, and had seen its better days. Jason is a single guy, 25 years old, great credit (credit score of 755), and was looking to get the most car for his money.

Time to decide

Already having owned a Toyota Camry, he was very open to the idea of getting another. Still, he did his homework. He utilized a site called Edmunds to research the new 2010 Camry along with many of its competing models (Honda Accord, Nissan Altima, Chevrolet Malibu), eventually deciding the 2010 Toyota Camry LE was for him. He liked the reliability rating coupled with the attractive styling, resale value, and gas mileage the car had to offer.

Do the research

After deciding on the car he wanted, he proceeded to do further research into what the true market value (or TMV) was for the vehicle he chose. He found that other people were paying in the neighborhood $21,200 for this car, with a sticker price of $22,650, that’s a savings of $1,450 if he were able to successfully negotiate this deal with his local Toyota dealer.

At that point he needed to figure out what amount of money would be a fair trade-in price for his current car, since it was not a “clunker” and did not qualify for the CARS rebate system. Again he turned to Edmunds and found out that a 2000 Camry in good condition with nearly 200,000 miles was worth about $3,000 on trade. Since this car was paid off long ago he could apply this amount directly toward the price of his new car.

Off to the dealer

Having finished his research, Jason headed down to the Toyota dealer and took a red 2010 Camry LE out for a test drive (they had plenty in stock). He really liked the car, a great upgrade from the 2000 model, he thought. After the test drive and checking out all the features the car had to offer, Jason was ready to go in and “work out the numbers” with the salesman.

Now the fun begins!

Jason knew what he wanted, by doing his research beforehand. He knew his current car was worth $3,000 on trade, and others were paying around $21,200 for the exact car he was looking at buying that day. But he also knew the dealer wasn’t going to just offer that to him right away, so he had his work cut out for him.

They both walked over and sat down as the salesman’s desk, and went through the whole process of collecting his personal information, and the details on his trade-in. After one of the guys at the dealer took his car for a quick drive, they went back to “work on the numbers”.

After several minutes, the salesman came back with a piece of paper in his hand, with some things written on it, and he said “ok, so here’s what we can do”. They wanted to give him $2,200 for his trade-in with the price of the car being the full sticker price of $22,650. If he took the first thing they offered him, he would end up paying $2,250 more for his new car than he should’ve. So did he take it, NO! He knew that you never take what they give you, you do your research and know what you can get, then negotiate to achieve the deal you want.

Here’s the deal I want, take it or leave it

At that time he told the salesman exactly what he wanted, and basically said “take it or leave it”. There were plenty of other Toyota dealers around with plenty of Camry’s to choose from, if he didn’t get the deal he wanted he could’ve just gone to another dealer. He even had it written down on a piece of paper, which he pulled out of his pocket and handed to the salesman.

The salesman looked a bit befuddled, and said “I don’t know if we can do that, let me check with the sales manager”. He came back a few minutes later with some more numbers written down on the paper. Their “final” offer was to give Jason $2,500 for his trade, and discount the new car by $500. Which brings the price down to $22,150, which is still almost $1,000 more than what Jason found to be a fair price for the car.

At that time he could’ve just said, “ok we have a deal”. After all they said that was as low as they could go on the new car, and as high as they could go on the trade-in, right? Yes that is what they said, but Jason knew what he wanted and stuck to his guns. He said to the salesman “well, maybe I’ll check around and see if another dealer will give me what I want”. That’s the last thing a salesman wants to hear when he’s that close to making a sale!

Jason started to get up and head out the door, at that time the salesman quickly told him to wait, and that he needed to go back and talk to the sales manager again. Guess what? They gave him what he wanted, the new car at $21,200 and $3,000 for his trade-in. Wow, so much for their “final” offer!

“Final” is not always Final

The salesman told Jason that’s as good as they could do, not because it was true, but because most people fall for that line. Most uneducated buyers would’ve just said “ok, it’s a deal”. But not Jason, he knew better. And he saw it through to the end and got what he knew he deserved.

Do your research and save

In this case, Jason saved $2,250 ($800 more on his trade-in and $1,450 off the price of the new car) by doing his research and knowing what kind of deal he could GET, not by taking what the dealer wanted to GIVE him.

Thanks to his good credit score, he ended up obtaining a loan for the car through Toyota Financial with 0% financing for 3 years, which turned out to be a great deal for him. The savings he was able to achieve by getting the special 0% financing is out of the scope of this article, but still another great money saver, and probably a topic for another day.

Next time you are in the market to buy a new or used car, try to mimic what Jason did and you will most likely save a bundle as well.

Getting a mortgage with a low credit score

Friday, August 21st, 2009

iStock_000002893588XSmall

I recently had a very good question submitted to us from one of our visitors, she wrote:

“When I first decided to buy a house it seem like only a dream, my scores where in the low 500, the mortgage company told me about all the things on my credit that I need to pay off, and also all the things I need to keep in good status. I then paid off all the things on my credit and kept my car loan up for the last past year….now my credit is at a 615 what is that I must do to make my credit score rise more, they want it to be at least a 620 to get the loan… please help me!!!!”

Sounds to me like you have had some trouble in the past with late payments, and probably high credit card balances. If you’re able to get your credit score up to 620, that’s a huge improvement over the low 500’s, and I think congratulations is in order. A credit score in the lower 600 range will not get you the best interest rates, but you are well on your way to improving your credit score.

First thing’s first

Here’s a good idea of how your credit score is determined:

  1. Payment history: 35% of your score
  2. How much you owe: 30 % of your score
  3. Length of credit history: 15% of your score
  4. Newly opened accounts: 10% of your score
  5. Types of credit accounts: 10% of your score

Payment history

As you can see above, #1 factor is your payment history. Have you made your payments on time in recent years? How late have you been, if at all? Being 60 days late hits your credit score harder than a 30 day late payment does. Maybe you’ve had some trouble in the past with this, you can’t change history, but you can help shape your future. Just make sure you pay your bills on time, this is key.

How much you owe

The importance of this is right up there with payment history. Pay special attention to your credit card balances. It’s best to keep your credit utilization ratio below 25%. This means if you have a total credit line of $10,000 (total of all the limits on your credit cards), you should keep a total balance no more than $2500 on those cards. The closer you move to having a 50% debt to limit ratio, the lower your score will go. And once you go over 50%, your credit score takes a big hit. So pay special attention to this part and work very hard on keeping your balances low.

Length of credit history

This one you don’t have much control over. One thing to keep in mind is keep your oldest accounts open, such as credit cards. If you have too many open accounts, and you must close some, cancel your newest accounts and keep the oldest ones active. You want your credit history to look as old as possible, closing old accounts will make your credit history look shorter.

Newly opened credit accounts

Opening many credit accounts in a short amount of time is not good for your credit score, even if you don’t carry high balances on these accounts, and pay your bills on time. Every new account you open will ding your score, so open new accounts only when you really need to. Time to say no to the store clerks who want you to open a credit account at their store and save 10% on your purchase. It may save you money now, but if you’re trying to maintain or build a good credit score, it’s a good idea to just use the credit card you already have, or pay with your debit card instead.

Types of credit accounts

Lenders and creditors like to see how you handle your credit accounts of all types. Auto loans, mortgages, credit cards, student loans are some good examples. If you only have credit cards on your credit report, and no installment loans like student loans or auto loans, you may appear to be at higher risk because the lender can’t look at your credit report and see how you handle installment loans. If this is the case for you, you may end up paying higher interest on your first loan, or they may ask that you have a co-signer on your loan.

Again, don’t open new loan accounts just for the sake of improving your credit score. Only open new installment loans as needed, and be sure to pay your bills on time.

On the road to a higher credit score

If you’re trying to further improve your credit score, be sure to pay your bills on time every month, keep low balances on your credit cards, don’t open any new accounts unless you absolutely have to (this includes department store credit cards). If you already have some dings on your credit report, time will heal these, just hang in there and your score will improve.

Credit score estimator

If you are having trouble figuring out what things to focus on first when trying to improve your credit score, check out our credit score estimator. You can plug in different scenarios and see which events affect your score the most. It’s a great financial tool, check it out.